The Via del Sale is a historic trekking route connecting Varzi, in Lombardy’s Oltrepò Pavese, to Portofino on the Ligurian coast. Stretching roughly 90 km across four stages, it traces the ancient paths once used to transport salt inland from Genoa, crossing four regions — Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, and Liguria — and climbing to its highest point at Monte Chiappo (about 1,700 m) before descending through the Ligurian Apennines to the sea. I did the trail in mid-July with two friends, walking from the hills of Varzi down to Portofino over four days.
PLAN + ACCOMMODATION:
1. WEDNESDAY EVENING
Arrival in Varzi (2h by car from Milan & surroundings, leaving as soon as you’re off work). Remember to: buy something for the next day’s lunch.
🏠 Varzi: La Casa sui Tetti di Varzi (Booking.com)
Personal rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ – Perfect for a one night stay with an easy self check in/check out.
2. THURSDAY
Varzi → Capanne di Cosola / Capannette di Pej
🏠 Capannette di Pej: capannettedipei.it/en — Half board €60/pp (€54/pp without breakfast) — tel. 0523 935129 or mobile 347 9769455
Personal rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ – AMAZING view and great local food with multiple options (full 3 course meal)
3. FRIDAY
Capanne di Cosola / Capannette di Pej → Torriglia
🏠 Torriglia: B&B Villa Tiffany (contact via website or +39 342 626255) — overnight + dinner and breakfast, €50/pp
Personal rating: ⭐⭐ – The dinner is homemade and there is no choice. The place itself is nice and the owner is very helpful. However, I would not recommend it.
4. SATURDAY
Torriglia → Uscio
🏠 Uscio: Casa Anna (Booking.com)
Personal rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ – It is an Airbnb, so dinner is not included. However, stuff for breakfast is offered and the house itself is beautiful, spacious and with a nice view. BE CAREFUL: It is at the very end of town, therefore getting there will make the third day of trail a bit longer and the last one shorter.
5. SUNDAY
Uscio → Portofino center
Portofino is quite expensive so I suggest getting an Airbnb either in Santa Margherita or Camogli. When arrived in Portofino, take whatever transport is needed to reach the B&B. In my case, a bus to Santa Margherita (15 mins /5 euros)
🏠 Santa Margerita : we got a nice airbnb with a terrace, 15 mins walking from the seaside.
Personal rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
6. MONDAY 13
Wake up at leisure, swim at the sea, then: Train to Voghera + bus back to Varzi (3h30) & Drive back home (2h)
TRAIL LINKS: